Raf Simons's youthful collection for Dior
In the grounds of the Rodin Museum we entered into a purpose built kind of biologique garden, a tunnel of cascading (artificial, yes really) flowers - the setting for a super sophisticated plastic fantastic hot house of ideas from Raf Simons for Dior.
In a fashion capital groaning under the weight of legacy and history his handwriting is light and youthful and this collection with it??s 'green shoots' and inspiration in part, from the garden and flowers, was full of exciting pacey grace. In the show notes he said ??I wanted to feel that you wouldn??t know quite where these women were coming from and where they were going to, that they exist in a new place of change and possibility.?? We like, in fact we love these possibilities, the juxtaposition of the pale pink with apple green and drowned lilac and sky blue. The glass beaded neck pieces cascading like so many overblown flower heads added an extra overloaded succulence to it all and the sleeveless silk jackets sitting over fine knit skirts. The new lantern shapes were terrific, the skirts caught in at the knee by sewn down pleats, and the slashed ribbon dresses with their glimpse of words fused the old and the new Dior. I??d like to say it was exotic but that would be too tame it was more bio-erotic a glimpse of skin under translucent pleating, a glimmer at the small of the back. A Dior manmade wild/savage but very well planted garden.
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